New Zealand has a proud military history stretching back to the nineteenth century. Our country’s forces and peacekeepers have been held in high regard around the world by friend and foe alike. 

In World War Two, for example, British Prime Minister Winston Churchill made Kiwi hearts swell with pride when he said: “All are full of gratitude to the people of New Zealand who have sent this splendid Division to win fame and honour across the oceans.” 

Famed German Field Marshal Erwin Rommel was no less stinting in his praise. “If I’d had one division of Māori, I would have taken the (Suez) canal in a week. If I’d had three, I’d have taken Baghdad.”

While the bulk of our fields of conflict have been overseas, there are many historic military sites dotted across Auckland – plus some excellent museums that would be of interest to veterans and anyone with a passion for military history.

Anzac Day, War Memorial Service in Auckland.

The Maungauika/North Head Reserve

Maungauika North Head Historic Reserve

This sprawling network of gun emplacements, bunkers and tunnels date back to the 1880s, when the threat of Russian invasion was top of mind among the New Zealand powers that be. Buildings, fortifications and guns were added over the years for potential invasions that, thankfully, never came.

A lot of that history is alive and well at the Maungauika/North Head Reserve.  Located in Devonport, across the bay from Auckland city, the Reserve allows you to literally get into the thick of history (with stunning scenery and sunny picnic spots as a bonus).

There are tunnels and emplacements galore to explore, including a “disappearing gun” that continues to stand guard over the harbour entrance. A free 20 minute movie plays continuously in the old stone kitchen, providing fascinating insights into the area. 

There’s plenty of free parking at the bottom or top of the hill (you can access the Reserve via Takarunga Road). In Summer, the vehicle gate is open 6am – 8pm and in Winter from 7am – 7pm. The pedestrian gate is open 6am – 10pm in Summer and 7am – 8.30pm in Winter. Entry is free.

The Torpedo Bay Navy Museum is a ten minute downhill stroll away (or just a minute by car) – it’s the perfect way to find out even more about the Forts as well as our rich naval heritage.

The Torpedo Bay Navy Museum, Devonport

The finished interior of the new Navy Museum at Torpedo Bay.

The perfect companion piece to your visit to Maungauika/North Head, the Torpedo Bay Navy Museum brings New Zealand’s naval heritage to life in an informative and emotive way.

You’ll hear from veterans as they tell stories of endurance, courage, commitment and comradeship. Interactive displays provide fascinating insights into events that span from the nineteenth century through to today, including the Battle of the River Plate, Operation Valerian, the war against German South Seas Raiders and the Malayan Emergency.

You can drive, catch a bus (the 807 from Devonport Ferry Terminal) or take an easy 15 minute saunter along the boulevard from the Devonport Town Centre. There’s a café with snacks, light meals and stunning sea views and a shop with navy memorabilia.

The museum is fully accessible for visitors with restricted mobility (everything is on the one easy-to-negotiate ground floor level). 

It is open 10am to 5pm seven days a week (except for Christmas Day, Boxing Day and Good Friday). Entry is free for New Zealand residents. There is a $10 admission for international visitors aged 18 and over.

The Onehunga Blockhouse, Jellicoe Park

Jellicoe Park, Onehunga.

Sitting on a rise in picturesque Jellicoe Park with stunning views of Manukau Harbour, this Blockhouse was built during the Land Wars in 1860 and formed part of a defensive “ring” around Auckland. 

As the name suggests, the Blockhouse is in effect a miniature fort, with 30cm thick brick walls, doors faced in steel sheet and gun slits on every side.

The war didn’t come to Auckland, so like the forts at Maungauika/North Head, the Blockhouse never saw a shot fired in anger. But it stands today as it did back then, providing a fascinating insight into the era. A replica fully furnished cottage from circa 1847, and the 1856 original manse for the Congregational Church round out the picture. 

The Onehunga Fencible Historical Society manage the buildings. They are open to the public on the first and third Sundays of every month, from 1.30 – 4pm (you can walk around the exterior of the buildings whenever you want). The buildings can be found on Jellicoe Park Quadrant Road, Grey Street corner.

Fort Stony Batter, Waiheke Island

Stoney Batter. Waiheke Island.

Built in 1942 amid much military hush hush, Fort Stony Batter is a World War II Coastal Defence Fortress located at the eastern end of Waiheke Island.

The complex is made up of over 1.2 kilometres of subterranean passages, chambers and stairwells, all, amazingly, tunneled by hand. The fort was built to handle direct hits from an enemy bombardment, so it’s hardly surprising that it’s in a high state of preservation today (it’s Heritage 1 listed and classified as a “Monument of National Significance”).

You can take guided tours of this military underworld; these run for around fifty minutes. During your underworld adventure you’ll visit the large Magazine chambers, ascend to the Gun Turrets, then take the Ground Staircase down 42 metres below the forest to a 400 metre long tunnel where you’ll find a massive vaulted Engine Room and associated Operations Rooms.

The tour is suitable for all ages and people of average fitness. Tickets can be purchased from the Museum Office on site (visit stoneybattertunnels.co.nz for more details about prices, opening times and what to wear).

NZ Warbirds at Ardmore, South Auckland

De Havilland Tiger Moth vintage plane at Ardmore Airport

Nestled among the foothills of the Wairoa Valley just out of Papakura, NZ Warbirds of Ardmore lets you get up close and personal with our military aviation history, with unrestricted views of operational and static aircraft from the last 100+ years.

Stunningly restored aircraft on display include such classics as a Supermarine Spitfire, a P-51-D Mustang, a Fokker Dr. 1, a Curtiss P-40-N1 Kittyhawk and a Skyhawk.

There are display boards, dioramas and squadron histories to explore too, as well as an extensive model collection and aviation memorabilia.

The museum is open Saturdays and Sundays, 10.30am – 3.00pm (closed Christmas Day and New Year’s Day). Tickets are $15 for an adult, and $5 for school age children. Kids under 5 get in free.

MOTAT Aviation Museum, Western Springs

Motat Aviation Hall

Another must-see for military aviation enthusiasts (or anyone who loves aircraft, for that matter) is the MOTAT Aviation Museum in Western Springs. This is part of the Museum of Transport and Technology which also has buildings and displays on Great North Road, with free heritage tram rides shuttling between the two locations (so you can make a real day of it).

There’s plenty to see in this huge multi-award-winning space. The collection of aircraft celebrates the evolution of flight in our country and includes a Lancaster bomber, a Sunderland Flying Boat, a Skyhawk and many others. Events where Kiwi aviators played a key role are dramatically brought to life through interactive displays, videos, interviews and dioramas. 

You can access the Hall via Motions Road – there are over 155 carparks right outside the door. 

The aviation hall is open daily from 10am – 4pm and on all public holidays except Christmas day. Check their website for ticket prices: motat.nz

The Auckland War Memorial Museum, The Domain

War Memorial Museum in Auckland

This iconic building sits amid a sprawling park and sports fields, with panoramic views across Auckland and the Waitemata harbour.

There are three levels in the Museum; the top level is devoted to New Zealand’s involvement in conflicts from the New Zealand Wars to East Timor. Battlefields are vividly recreated in a range of galleries. You’ll walk through the trenches of the Western Front and at Gallipoli and stand alongside a gun battery in the snow-clad hills of Cassino.

A Hall of Memories, emotive displays and the voices of the men and women who were affected by conflict make this a truly moving experience for young and old.

 

The Museum is open from 10am – 5pm, Monday to Friday and 9am – 5pm on Saturday, Sunday, public holidays and school holidays. It is open late every Tuesday evening until 8.30pm. Entry is free for Auckland residents with a small charge for visitors from outside Auckland.