The first “fake news”?

If you think that fears of Russian aggression only really kicked in during the Cold War, think again. In the nineteenth century, Britain and her colonies were terrified by the spectre of Tsarist Russia taking over the world (or at least the bits that Britain owned).

So much so that when the cheeky editor of the Daily Southern Cross ran a “fake news” article in an 1873 edition stating that a Russian warship named the Kaskowiski (pronounced Cask of Whiskey) had entered Waitemata harbour and disgorged hundreds of troops onto our shores, Aucklanders ran screaming into the streets.

While the article may have been irresponsible, it did highlight the woeful lack of New Zealand’s coastal defences. In 1885, after a few more Russian ‘scares’ (including a war in Afghanistan), the New Zealand government gave the go ahead for forts to be built in major ports across the country.

Auckland was obviously high on the list, and so the gun batteries at Maungauika/North Head were born.

Harbour views and a healthy helping of history

As you take in the sweeping vistas from the summit, you’ll understand why the location was perfect for a nineteenth century fort.

The views go off in all directions, taking in the inner and outer harbours (the volcanic island of Rangitoto feels like it’s in your lap), Auckland city, the North Shore and beyond.

The fort’s designers carefully sited heavy artillery of various calibers on the hill’s grassy slopes to cover every point of the harbour. These included three “disappearing guns” which, at the time of their installation in 1886, were considered the most up-to-date weapons of their type.

The idea was that when fired, the recoil of the gun would push it underground, where it could be safely reloaded out of sight from anyone who wanted to shoot back.

You can still see the “disappearing gun” that formed part of the South Battery (which covered the inner harbour) and explore the deep chamber that it disappeared into.

A number of the other big guns remain too, their barrels still pointing menacingly out to sea. To challenge an invader that ultimately never came.

Tsarist Russia collapsed in the early twentieth century and feared invasions from the Germans and Japanese in the two World Wars never materialised.

The guns never fired a shot in anger. Time and improvements in technology passed them by. As ship’s guns became mightier and able to fire shells across miles rather than metres, it was deemed that the fort at North Head was simply too close to the city it was meant to defend.

New batteries were built at Mototapu, Castor Bay, Whangaparoa and Waiheke Island and Maungauika/North Head was relegated to the role of an administration centre.

Some guns were removed. Others replaced. And while the ones that remain will never blast any battleships out of the water, they certainly help to bring our history to life (and make a dramatic backdrop for a photo opp).

And then there are the tunnels…

Explore a subterranean slice of our heritage

The old adage of haste making waste certainly came into play with the construction of the original forts on Maungauika/North Head. It quickly became apparent after their completion that the forts simply weren’t up to snuff. Major reconstruction was required to make them usable.

For the next 25 years, up to 40 prisoners were put to work burrowing and building. Most of the tunnels, searchlights, gun emplacements and underground rooms you can explore today were built around this time.

An old army barracks was used as the prisoners’ home away from prison. This building, together with a small stone kitchen block built at the same time, still stand on the summit of Maungauika/North Head.

A free and easy way to enjoy your day

We’ve just scraped the surface of the history that surrounds Maungauika/North Head. Grab a picnic lunch (there are plenty of grassy slopes and fields with views to die for while you enjoy a nibble or two) and a torch for the tunnels and immerse yourself in the many fascinating stories that date back over the centuries.

Access to Maungauika/North Head is easy – if you’re driving there are ample free carparks at the bottom and the top of the hill (with plenty of street parking along the quiet, historic streets that surround the reserve).

If you really want to get into the nautical swing of things, why not take the twelve minute ferry crossing from Auckland to Devonport wharf, then stroll along the 1.5 kilometre boulevard to North Head (there are some fine examples of Victorian and Edwardian architecture along the way).

North Head is always free to enter and is open every day of the year. The vehicle gate is open in Summer from 6am – 8pm and in Winter from 7am – 7pm. The pedestrian gate is open from 6am – 10pm in Summer and 7am – 8.30pm in Winter.

Visit the nearby Navy Museum to make a real day of it

A more in-depth history of Maungauika/North Head and all things naval can be found at the Torpedo Bay Navy Museum that’s literally just around the corner from the Maungauika/North Head reserve.

It’s the official museum of the Royal New Zealand Navy, so if nautical history is your thing (or if you’re looking for a fun, educational day out for the family), this is the place to be. If you’re visiting during the school holidays, chances are there will be some fun activities running for the kids.

Interactive exhibits bring history to life, taking you on a journey through the memories, perils, loss, triumphs and humour of the men and women who served (and continue to serve).

Entry to the museum is free for New Zealand residents (international visitors aged 18 and over pay just $10). There’s a café (with a great kids’ menu) and children’s playground on-site too. The museum is open 10am to 5pm, seven days a week (the only days it’s closed is Good Friday, Christmas Day and Boxing Day).